/* Travel guide v2 (11 Oct 2026): cinematic dark look she chose. Big photos, swipe rows of tall photo cards, details in a
   sheet. Bold, white, easy-to-read text on dark (her standing taste). Arabic: Readex Pro. No long dashes in any text. */
:root{--bg:#0b0b0d;--bg2:#141418;--bg3:#1c1c22;--line:rgba(255,255,255,.12);--fg:#fff;--fg2:#ece6da;--gold:#C9A24B;--gold2:#E3C97C;--ink:#14100c;
  --serif:'Fraunces',Georgia,serif;--sans:'Jost',system-ui,-apple-system,'Segoe UI',sans-serif;--g:clamp(16px,5vw,72px);color-scheme:dark}
[dir=rtl]{--serif:'Readex Pro',Tahoma,sans-serif;--sans:'Readex Pro',Tahoma,sans-serif}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:120px}
body.tv2{margin:0;background:var(--bg);color:var(--fg);font:500 17px/1.6 var(--sans);-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}
img{max-width:100%;display:block}a{color:inherit}
.tw{width:100%;max-width:1320px;margin-inline:auto;padding-inline:var(--g)}
.kick{margin:0 0 8px;font:600 13px/1.3 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.24em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold2)}
[dir=rtl] .kick{letter-spacing:0;font-size:15px}
.h1{margin:0;font:600 clamp(54px,10vw,138px)/.95 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.02em;text-wrap:balance}
[dir=rtl] .h1{font-weight:700;letter-spacing:0;line-height:1.25;font-size:clamp(40px,6.4vw,88px)}
/* 11 Oct 2026 her ask: the headings were too huge; same fonts, smaller (the long hub title most of all) */
.hero--hub .h1{font-size:clamp(40px,5.6vw,84px);line-height:1.02;max-width:980px}
[dir=rtl] .hero--hub .h1{font-size:clamp(34px,4.6vw,66px);line-height:1.35;max-width:900px}
.tv2--country .h1{font-size:clamp(48px,8vw,116px)}
[dir=rtl] .tv2--country .h1{font-size:clamp(42px,6.2vw,92px)}
.h1 em{font-style:italic;color:var(--gold2)}
.h2{margin:0 0 10px;font:600 clamp(30px,4vw,50px)/1.08 var(--serif);text-wrap:balance}
[dir=rtl] .h2{font-weight:700;line-height:1.4;font-size:clamp(26px,3.4vw,42px)}
.h2 em{font-style:italic;color:var(--gold2)}
/* top bar: clear over the photo, solid once you scroll (her screenshot: text ran under the bar) */
.tb{position:fixed;inset:0 0 auto;z-index:50;padding-top:env(safe-area-inset-top,0px);transition:background .3s,box-shadow .3s}
.tb:before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(#000b,#0000);pointer-events:none;transition:opacity .3s}
.tb.solid{background:rgba(11,11,13,.94);backdrop-filter:blur(12px);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(12px);box-shadow:0 1px 0 var(--line)}
.tb.solid:before{opacity:0}
.tb__in{position:relative;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:12px;max-width:1440px;margin:auto;padding:12px var(--g)}
.tb__brand{text-decoration:none;line-height:1.1}.tb__brand b{display:block;font:600 21px var(--serif)}[dir=rtl] .tb__brand b{font-weight:700}
.tb__brand small{font:600 10.5px var(--sans);letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold2)}[dir=rtl] .tb__brand small{letter-spacing:0;font-size:12px}
.tb__end{display:flex;gap:8px;align-items:center}
.tb__prog{position:absolute;inset:auto auto 0 0;height:2px;width:0;background:var(--gold)}[dir=rtl] .tb__prog{inset:auto 0 0 auto}
.pill{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;min-height:42px;padding:0 18px;border-radius:99px;border:1.5px solid rgba(255,255,255,.55);background:rgba(0,0,0,.2);color:#fff;font:600 15px var(--sans);text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap;cursor:pointer}
.pill svg{width:18px;height:18px;fill:currentColor}.pill--wa{background:#25D366;border-color:#25D366;padding:0 12px}.pill--wa svg{width:20px;height:20px}
.pill--gold{background:var(--gold);border-color:var(--gold);color:var(--ink);font-weight:700}
.pill--big{min-height:52px;padding:0 24px;font-size:16px}
@media(max-width:560px){.tb__homes{display:none}.pill{padding:0 14px;font-size:14px;min-height:40px}.tb__brand b{font-size:18px}}
/* hero: full screen, slow crossfade + zoom */
.hero{position:relative;height:100svh;min-height:600px;max-height:1100px;overflow:hidden;isolation:isolate}
.hero__slides,.hero__slide{position:absolute;inset:0;margin:0}
.hero__slide{opacity:0;transition:opacity 1.6s ease}.hero__slide.on{opacity:1}
.hero__slide img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transform:scale(1.04)}
.hero__slide.on img{animation:kb 9s ease-out forwards}
@keyframes kb{from{transform:scale(1.04)}to{transform:scale(1.13)}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.hero__slide.on img{animation:none}}
.hero:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:1;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(0,0,0,.45) 0,rgba(0,0,0,0) 30%,rgba(0,0,0,.05) 50%,rgba(11,11,13,.92) 100%)}
.hero__in{position:absolute;z-index:2;inset:auto 0 0;max-width:1320px;margin:auto;padding:0 var(--g) clamp(56px,10vh,120px)}
.hero__tag{margin:14px 0 0;font:500 clamp(19px,2.2vw,26px)/1.4 var(--sans);max-width:720px;color:#fff;text-shadow:0 1px 12px rgba(0,0,0,.5)}
.hero__sub{margin:16px 0 0;font-size:clamp(17px,1.8vw,21px);max-width:640px;color:#fff;text-shadow:0 1px 12px rgba(0,0,0,.5)}
.hero__cta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px;margin-top:26px}
.hero__dots{position:absolute;z-index:3;inset:auto var(--g) 26px auto;display:flex;gap:6px}[dir=rtl] .hero__dots{inset:auto auto 26px var(--g)}
.hero__dots i{width:26px;height:3px;border-radius:3px;background:rgba(255,255,255,.4);transition:background .4s}.hero__dots i.on{background:var(--gold2)}
.hero__credit{position:absolute;z-index:3;inset:auto auto 8px var(--g);margin:0;font-size:11px;color:rgba(255,255,255,.7)}[dir=rtl] .hero__credit{inset:auto var(--g) 8px auto}
.hero__credit a{color:inherit}
.hero .kick,.crumb{text-shadow:0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,.9),0 0 18px rgba(0,0,0,.6)}
.crumb{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px;align-items:center;margin-bottom:14px;font-size:13px;color:rgba(255,255,255,.85)}.crumb a{text-decoration:none}.crumb i{font-style:normal;opacity:.6}
/* glance */
.glance{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.1fr 1fr;gap:clamp(24px,4vw,64px);padding-block:clamp(56px,8vw,110px) 24px;align-items:start}
.glance__text p{color:var(--fg2);font-size:18px;margin:0 0 14px;max-width:640px}
.glance__facts{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:10px}
.glance__facts li{background:var(--bg2);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:18px;padding:16px 18px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:6px}
.glance__facts span{font:700 12px var(--sans);letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold2)}[dir=rtl] .glance__facts span{letter-spacing:0;font-size:14px}
.glance__facts b{font:600 17px/1.4 var(--sans)}
@media(max-width:860px){.glance{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
@media(max-width:420px){.glance__facts{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.gohome{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:14px;flex-wrap:wrap;padding-block:22px;color:var(--fg2);font-size:15px}
/* region nav */
.regnav{position:sticky;top:calc(66px + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px));z-index:40;background:rgba(11,11,13,.94);backdrop-filter:blur(10px);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(10px);border-block:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:20px}
.regnav__in{display:flex;gap:8px;overflow-x:auto;scrollbar-width:none;max-width:1320px;margin:auto;padding:10px var(--g)}.regnav__in::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
.chip{flex:0 0 auto;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:38px;padding:0 16px;border-radius:99px;background:rgba(255,255,255,.08);border:1px solid var(--line);color:#fff;font:600 14px var(--sans);text-decoration:none;cursor:pointer}
.chip:hover,.chip.on{background:#fff;color:var(--bg)}
.taphint{margin:26px auto 0;color:var(--gold2);font-weight:600;font-size:15px}
/* regions: swipe rows of tall cards */
.reg{padding-block:clamp(40px,6vw,72px) 8px}
.reg__head p{margin:0 0 22px;color:var(--fg2);font-size:18px;max-width:680px}
.row{position:relative}
.row__track{display:flex;gap:14px;overflow-x:auto;scroll-snap-type:x mandatory;scrollbar-width:none;padding:4px max(var(--g),calc((100vw - 1320px)/2 + var(--g))) 26px;scroll-padding-inline:max(var(--g),calc((100vw - 1320px)/2 + var(--g)))}
.row__track::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
.row__btn{position:absolute;z-index:3;top:calc(50% - 40px);width:52px;height:52px;border-radius:50%;border:0;background:rgba(255,255,255,.92);color:var(--bg);display:grid;place-items:center;cursor:pointer;box-shadow:0 8px 24px rgba(0,0,0,.4)}
.row__btn svg{width:22px;height:22px}.row__btn--prev{inset-inline-start:max(10px,calc((100vw - 1320px)/2))}.row__btn--next{inset-inline-end:max(10px,calc((100vw - 1320px)/2))}
.row__btn--prev svg,[dir=rtl] .row__btn--next svg{transform:scaleX(-1)}[dir=rtl] .row__btn--prev svg{transform:none}
.row__btn[disabled]{opacity:0;pointer-events:none}
@media(hover:none),(max-width:760px){.row__btn{display:none}}
.pc{flex:0 0 clamp(240px,23vw,330px);scroll-snap-align:start;margin:0}
.pc__card{position:relative;display:block;aspect-ratio:3/4.15;border-radius:22px;overflow:hidden;text-decoration:none;background:var(--bg3);box-shadow:0 18px 40px rgba(0,0,0,.45)}
.pc__card img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .9s ease}
.pc__card:hover img{transform:scale(1.06)}
.pc__card:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(0,0,0,.15) 0,rgba(0,0,0,0) 30%,rgba(0,0,0,0) 48%,rgba(0,0,0,.85) 100%)}
.pc__t{position:absolute;z-index:2;inset:auto 18px 18px}
.pc__t small{display:block;font:700 12px var(--sans);letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold2);margin-bottom:4px}[dir=rtl] .pc__t small{letter-spacing:0;font-size:14px}
.pc__t b{display:block;font:600 25px/1.1 var(--serif);text-shadow:0 1px 10px rgba(0,0,0,.5)}[dir=rtl] .pc__t b{font-weight:700;line-height:1.35;font-size:23px}
.pc__t em{display:inline-block;margin-top:10px;font:600 13px var(--sans);font-style:normal;padding:5px 11px;border-radius:99px;background:rgba(255,255,255,.18);backdrop-filter:blur(6px);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(6px)}
.pc__n{position:absolute;z-index:2;inset:14px auto auto 16px;font:600 15px var(--sans);font-style:normal;width:32px;height:32px;border-radius:50%;display:grid;place-items:center;background:rgba(0,0,0,.45);border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.4)}[dir=rtl] .pc__n{inset:14px 16px auto auto}
@media(max-width:760px){.pc{flex-basis:74vw}.row__track{gap:12px}}
/* the detail sheet */
.sheet{padding:0;border:0;background:transparent;color:#fff;max-width:min(960px,100vw);width:100%;max-height:100dvh;margin:auto}
.sheet::backdrop{background:rgba(0,0,0,.78);backdrop-filter:blur(4px)}
.sheet__box{position:relative;background:var(--bg2);border-radius:26px;overflow:hidden;max-height:calc(100dvh - 32px);display:flex;flex-direction:column}
.sheet__body{overflow-y:auto;overscroll-behavior:contain}
.sheet__x{position:absolute;z-index:5;inset:12px 12px auto auto;width:44px;height:44px;border-radius:50%;border:0;background:rgba(0,0,0,.6);color:#fff;display:grid;place-items:center;cursor:pointer}[dir=rtl] .sheet__x{inset:12px auto auto 12px}
.sheet__x svg{width:22px;height:22px}
.sheet__nav{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:10px;padding:10px 16px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--bg2)}
.sheet__nav button{width:46px;height:46px;border-radius:50%;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--bg3);color:#fff;display:grid;place-items:center;cursor:pointer}
.sheet__nav svg{width:20px;height:20px}.sheet__prev svg{transform:scaleX(-1)}[dir=rtl] .sheet__prev svg{transform:none}[dir=rtl] .sheet__next svg{transform:scaleX(-1)}
.sheet__count{font-weight:600;color:var(--fg2)}
.gal{display:flex;overflow-x:auto;scroll-snap-type:x mandatory;scrollbar-width:none}.gal::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
.gal figure{flex:0 0 100%;margin:0;scroll-snap-align:start;position:relative;aspect-ratio:3/2;background:#000}
.gal img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.gal figcaption{position:absolute;inset:auto 0 0;padding:24px 14px 8px;font-size:11px;color:rgba(255,255,255,.8);background:linear-gradient(#0000,#000a)}.gal figcaption a{color:inherit}
.gal__dots{display:flex;justify-content:center;gap:6px;margin-top:10px}.gal__dots i{width:8px;height:8px;border-radius:50%;background:rgba(255,255,255,.3)}.gal__dots i.on{background:var(--gold2)}
.pc__txt{padding:18px clamp(18px,4vw,34px) 26px}
.pc__txt h3{margin:0 0 12px;font:600 clamp(28px,4vw,40px)/1.1 var(--serif)}[dir=rtl] .pc__txt h3{font-weight:700;line-height:1.35}
.pc__txt p{margin:0 0 14px;color:var(--fg2);font-size:17.5px}
.tip{background:rgba(201,162,75,.12);border:1px solid rgba(201,162,75,.5);border-radius:14px;padding:14px 16px;color:#fff!important}.tip b{color:var(--gold2)}
.when{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:10px;margin-top:6px;font-weight:600}
.mo{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(12,1fr);gap:4px}
.mo li{text-align:center;font:600 11px var(--sans);padding:7px 0;border-radius:7px;background:rgba(255,255,255,.07);color:rgba(255,255,255,.55)}
.mo li.on{background:var(--gold);color:var(--ink)}
@media(max-width:760px){.sheet{max-width:100vw;margin:auto 0 0}.sheet__box{border-radius:22px 22px 0 0;max-height:94dvh}.gal figure{aspect-ratio:4/3.4}[dir=rtl] .mo li{font-size:9px}}
/* food, tips, faq */
.food,.tips,.faq{padding-block:clamp(48px,7vw,90px) 0}
.food__list{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(250px,1fr));gap:14px;margin-top:14px}
.food__i{background:var(--bg2);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:20px;padding:20px 20px 16px;position:relative}
.food__i i{font:600 14px var(--sans);font-style:normal;color:var(--gold2)}
.food__i b{display:block;margin:6px 0 8px;font:600 23px/1.15 var(--serif)}[dir=rtl] .food__i b{font-weight:700;line-height:1.4}
.food__i p{margin:0;color:var(--fg2);font-size:16px}
.tips__list{margin:14px 0 0;padding:0;list-style:none;counter-reset:t;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:12px 28px}
.tips__list li{counter-increment:t;position:relative;padding:16px 0 16px 46px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--fg2);font-size:16.5px}
[dir=rtl] .tips__list li{padding:16px 46px 16px 0}
.tips__list li:before{content:counter(t);position:absolute;inset:16px auto auto 0;width:30px;height:30px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--gold);color:var(--ink);font-weight:700;display:grid;place-items:center;font-size:14px}
[dir=rtl] .tips__list li:before{inset:16px 0 auto auto}
@media(max-width:760px){.tips__list{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.faq__list{margin-top:14px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.faq details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.faq summary{list-style:none;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;align-items:center;padding:18px 0;font:600 18px/1.4 var(--sans);cursor:pointer}
.faq summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.faq summary i{font-style:normal;font-size:26px;color:var(--gold2);transition:transform .25s}
.faq details[open] summary i{transform:rotate(45deg)}.faq details p{margin:0 0 18px;color:var(--fg2);max-width:820px}
.srcs{margin-top:22px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:12px 16px;color:var(--fg2);font-size:14px}
.srcs summary{cursor:pointer;font-weight:600}.srcs ul{margin:10px 0 0;padding-inline-start:18px}.srcs li{margin:4px 0}.srcs a{color:var(--gold2)}
/* country cards */
.ccards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:16px;padding-block:clamp(40px,6vw,72px) 10px}
.ccards--2{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;padding-block:14px 0}
.ccard{position:relative;display:block;border-radius:24px;overflow:hidden;aspect-ratio:3/4;text-decoration:none;box-shadow:0 18px 40px rgba(0,0,0,.45)}
.ccard--small{aspect-ratio:16/10}
.ccard img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .9s}.ccard:hover img{transform:scale(1.05)}
.ccard:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(0,0,0,0) 40%,rgba(0,0,0,.85))}
.ccard span{position:absolute;z-index:2;inset:auto 22px 22px}.ccard small{display:block;font:700 12px var(--sans);letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold2)}[dir=rtl] .ccard small{letter-spacing:0;font-size:14px}
.ccard b{display:block;margin:4px 0;font:600 clamp(30px,3.4vw,44px)/1.05 var(--serif)}[dir=rtl] .ccard b{font-weight:700;line-height:1.3}
.ccard em{display:block;font-style:normal;color:#fff;font-size:16px}.ccard i{display:inline-flex;gap:6px;align-items:center;margin-top:10px;font-style:normal;font-weight:700;color:var(--gold2)}
.ccard i svg{width:18px;height:18px}[dir=rtl] .ccard i svg{transform:scaleX(-1)}
@media(max-width:860px){.ccards{grid-template-columns:1fr}.ccards--2{grid-template-columns:1fr}.ccard{aspect-ratio:4/3.2}}
.strip{padding-block:clamp(48px,7vw,80px) clamp(40px,6vw,64px)}
.intro{padding-block:10px 60px}.intro p{max-width:760px;color:var(--fg2);font-size:18px}
/* homes + form */
.homes{background:linear-gradient(180deg,var(--bg) 0,#16130d 100%);border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-block:clamp(56px,8vw,100px)}
.homes__head p{color:var(--fg2);max-width:720px;font-size:18px}.homes__res{display:inline-flex;gap:8px;align-items:center;color:var(--gold2);font-weight:700;text-decoration:none}
.homes__res svg,.hcard em svg,.gbtn svg{width:18px;height:18px}[dir=rtl] .homes__res svg,[dir=rtl] .hcard em svg,[dir=rtl] .gbtn svg{transform:scaleX(-1)}
.homes__cards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:14px;margin:26px 0 30px}
.hcard{display:block;border-radius:18px;overflow:hidden;background:var(--bg2);border:1px solid var(--line);text-decoration:none}
.hcard img{width:100%;height:auto;aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .9s}.hcard:hover img{transform:scale(1.04)}.hcard{position:relative}.hcard span{display:block;padding:14px 16px}.hcard b{display:block;font:600 19px var(--serif)}[dir=rtl] .hcard b{font-weight:700}
.hcard small{display:block;color:var(--fg2);font-size:14.5px;margin:4px 0 8px}.hcard em{display:inline-flex;gap:6px;align-items:center;font-style:normal;font-weight:700;color:var(--gold2);font-size:14px}
@media(max-width:960px){.homes__cards{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}
.gform{background:var(--bg2);border:1px solid rgba(201,162,75,.45);border-radius:22px;padding:22px;max-width:640px}
.gform__step{display:none}.gform__step.on{display:block}
.gform__q{margin:0 0 14px;font:600 22px/1.3 var(--serif)}[dir=rtl] .gform__q{font-weight:700}
.gform__chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px}.gform__meta,.gform__note{color:var(--fg2);font-size:14px;margin:12px 0 0}
.gfield{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:6px;margin-bottom:12px;font-weight:600;font-size:14px;flex:1}
.gfield input,.gfield select{min-height:50px;border-radius:12px;border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.25);background:#0f0f12;color:#fff;font:500 17px var(--sans);padding:0 14px}
.gfield--row{display:flex;gap:10px}.gfield--row .gfield:first-child{flex:0 0 130px}
.gbtn{display:inline-flex;gap:8px;align-items:center;min-height:52px;padding:0 26px;border-radius:99px;border:0;background:var(--gold);color:var(--ink);font:700 17px var(--sans);cursor:pointer}
.gback{background:none;border:0;color:var(--fg2);font:600 15px var(--sans);margin-inline-start:12px;cursor:pointer}
.gform__msg{color:#ffb4a8;font-weight:600;min-height:1em}
.hp{position:absolute;left:-9999px;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden}
.homes__wa a{display:inline-flex;gap:8px;align-items:center;margin-top:18px;color:#5be08a;font-weight:700;text-decoration:none}.homes__wa svg{width:20px;height:20px;fill:currentColor}
/* footer */
.tf{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-block:40px 60px;color:var(--fg2);font-size:15px}
.tf nav{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 18px;margin:14px 0}.tf nav a{color:#fff;font-weight:600;text-decoration:none}.tf__small{font-size:13px;opacity:.85}
/* the sheet on computers: photos on one side, the words on the other (11 Oct 2026) */
@media(min-width:900px){
  .sheet{max-width:min(1240px,94vw)}
  .sheet__box{height:min(760px,90dvh)}
  .sheet__body{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.35fr 1fr;grid-template-rows:1fr auto;height:100%;overflow:hidden}
  .sheet__body .gal{grid-column:1;grid-row:1/3;height:100%}
  .sheet__body .gal figure{aspect-ratio:auto;height:100%}
  .sheet__body .gal__dots{grid-column:1;grid-row:2;position:relative;z-index:2;margin:0 0 34px}
  .sheet__body .pc__txt{grid-column:2;grid-row:1/3;overflow-y:auto;padding:56px 34px 30px}
}
/* food photos (11 Oct 2026, her ask): a medium picture on top of each dish */
.food__i--pic{padding:0;overflow:hidden;display:flex;flex-direction:column}
.food__i--pic>i,.food__i--pic>b,.food__i--pic>p{margin-inline:20px}.food__i--pic>i{margin-top:16px}.food__i--pic>p{margin-bottom:18px}
.food__pic{margin:0;position:relative;aspect-ratio:3/2;background:#000;overflow:hidden}
.food__pic img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .9s}.food__i:hover .food__pic img{transform:scale(1.05)}
.food__pic figcaption{position:absolute;inset:auto 0 0;padding:18px 10px 5px;font-size:10.5px;color:rgba(255,255,255,.8);background:linear-gradient(#0000,#0009)}.food__pic figcaption a{color:inherit}
/* five dishes in one row on wide screens, no lonely last card */
@media(min-width:1180px){.food__list{grid-template-columns:repeat(5,1fr)}.food__i b{font-size:21px}.food__i p{font-size:15px}}
@media(min-width:700px) and (max-width:1179px){.food__list{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}}
/* travel map v3 (11 Oct 2026, her ask: fully transparent, creative): a journey sketched on the photo */
.tmap{position:absolute;z-index:2;margin:0;inset-inline-end:clamp(16px,4vw,64px);top:calc(100px + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px));bottom:clamp(70px,11vh,120px);width:min(44vw,640px);display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;direction:ltr;pointer-events:none}
.tmap svg{width:100%;height:auto;max-height:100%;display:block;overflow:visible}
.tmap__t{margin:0 0 6px;font:500 italic 22px/1 'Fraunces',Georgia,serif;color:#fff;text-shadow:0 2px 10px rgba(0,0,0,.7);opacity:.95}
[dir=rtl] .tmap__t{font:700 18px/1.2 'Readex Pro',Tahoma,sans-serif;text-align:right}
.tj__land{fill:none;stroke:rgba(255,255,255,.85);stroke-width:1.4;stroke-linejoin:round;vector-effect:non-scaling-stroke;filter:drop-shadow(0 0 1px rgba(0,0,0,.9)) drop-shadow(0 2px 8px rgba(0,0,0,.6))}
@keyframes tjdraw{to{stroke-dashoffset:0}}
.tj__route{fill:none;stroke:#fff;stroke-width:1.6;stroke-dasharray:1 7;stroke-linecap:round;vector-effect:non-scaling-stroke;filter:drop-shadow(0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,.9))}
.tj__plane{fill:#fff;filter:drop-shadow(0 2px 4px rgba(0,0,0,.8))}
@keyframes tjfade{to{opacity:1}}
.tj__pin{pointer-events:auto;cursor:pointer;outline:none}
@keyframes tjpop{from{opacity:0;transform:scale(.6)}to{opacity:1;transform:none}}
.tj__halo{fill:rgba(255,255,255,.14);stroke:rgba(255,255,255,.35);stroke-width:1;vector-effect:non-scaling-stroke}
.tj__ring{fill:none;stroke:#fff;stroke-width:2.2;vector-effect:non-scaling-stroke;filter:drop-shadow(0 3px 8px rgba(0,0,0,.7))}
.tj__pin image{transition:transform .35s;transform-box:fill-box;transform-origin:center}
.tj__pin:hover image,.tj__pin:focus image{transform:scale(1.12)}
.tj__pin:hover .tj__ring,.tj__pin:focus .tj__ring{stroke:var(--gold2);stroke-width:3}
.tj__count circle{fill:#fff;filter:drop-shadow(0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,.6))}.tj__count text{fill:#14100c;font-family:var(--sans);font-weight:700}
.tj__name{fill:#fff;font-family:var(--sans);font-weight:600;paint-order:stroke;stroke:rgba(0,0,0,.55);stroke-width:3px;stroke-linejoin:round}
[dir=rtl] .tj__name,[dir=rtl] .tj__sub{font-family:'Readex Pro',Tahoma,sans-serif}
.tj__sub{fill:rgba(255,255,255,.85);font-family:var(--sans);font-weight:500;paint-order:stroke;stroke:rgba(0,0,0,.5);stroke-width:3px}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.tj__land{animation:none;stroke-dashoffset:0}.tj__route,.tj__plane,.tj__pin{animation:none;opacity:1}}
/* phones: the journey sits under the photo, on the page background */
@media(max-width:999px){.hero--map .tmap{display:none}}
.tmap--below{display:none}
@media(max-width:999px){.tmap--below{display:flex;position:relative;inset:auto;width:auto;max-width:560px;margin:34px auto 0;padding:0 var(--g)}.tmap--below .tmap__t{font-size:24px}}
@media(min-width:1000px){.hero--map .hero__in{max-width:none;padding-inline-end:calc(min(44vw,640px) + 5vw)}}
.hero--map .hero__in{pointer-events:none}.hero--map .hero__in a,.hero--map .hero__in button,.hero--map .hero__in p,.hero--map .hero__in h1{pointer-events:auto}.hero--map .tmap{z-index:3}
.tj__tether{fill:none;stroke:rgba(255,255,255,.75);stroke-width:1;vector-effect:non-scaling-stroke}.tj__spot{fill:#fff;filter:drop-shadow(0 0 3px rgba(0,0,0,.9))}
/* SEO pack (11 Oct 2026): what to wear, culture and customs */
.h1__seo{display:block;margin-top:12px;font:600 clamp(15px,1.5vw,19px)/1.3 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:none;color:var(--gold2)}.h1__seo:empty{display:none}
[dir=rtl] .h1__seo{letter-spacing:0;font-size:clamp(16px,1.6vw,20px)}
.wear,.cult{padding-block:clamp(48px,7vw,90px) 0}
.sec__intro{color:var(--fg2);font-size:18px;max-width:760px;margin:0 0 18px}
.wear__grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(250px,1fr));gap:14px}
.wear__g{background:var(--bg2);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:20px;padding:20px 22px}
.wear__g h3{margin:0 0 10px;font:600 21px/1.2 var(--serif);color:var(--gold2)}[dir=rtl] .wear__g h3{font-weight:700;line-height:1.4}
.wear__g ul{margin:0;padding-inline-start:18px;color:var(--fg2);font-size:16px}.wear__g li{margin:6px 0}
.cult__grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(280px,1fr));gap:12px 28px}
.cult__i{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:18px 0 6px}
.cult__i i{font:600 14px var(--sans);font-style:normal;color:var(--gold2)}
.cult__i h3{margin:6px 0 8px;font:600 21px/1.2 var(--serif)}[dir=rtl] .cult__i h3{font-weight:700;line-height:1.4}
.cult__i p{margin:0;color:var(--fg2);font-size:16.5px}
@media(min-width:1000px){.wear__grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}.wear__g:nth-child(4),.wear__g:nth-child(5){grid-column:span 1}.wear__grid:has(.wear__g:nth-child(5):last-child) .wear__g:nth-child(n+4){grid-column:auto}}
@media(min-width:1000px){.wear__grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(6,1fr)}.wear__g{grid-column:span 2}.wear__grid .wear__g:nth-child(4):nth-last-child(2),.wear__grid .wear__g:nth-child(5):last-child{grid-column:span 3}}
/* 12 Oct 2026 her ask: the map stays on the top photo on phones too, small; on Arabic pages it sits on the left */
[dir=rtl] .hero--map .tmap{left:clamp(16px,4vw,64px);right:auto}
@media(max-width:999px){
  .hero--map .tmap{display:flex;top:calc(78px + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px));bottom:auto;width:min(52vw,250px);left:10px;right:auto}   /* 12 Oct 2026 her ask: on the left on every phone page, bolder */
  [dir=rtl] .hero--map .tmap{left:10px;right:auto}
  .hero--map .tmap .tmap__t{font-size:14px;font-weight:600;margin-bottom:2px}
  .hero--map .tj__land{stroke-width:2.2;stroke:#fff}
  .hero--map .tj__route{stroke-width:2.4;stroke-dasharray:1 5}
  .hero--map .tj__name{font-weight:700;stroke-width:4px}
  .hero--map .tj__ring{stroke-width:3}
  .hero--map .tj__sub{display:none}
  .hero--map .hero__in{padding-inline-end:var(--g)}
}